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Feb 11, 2003 01:51 am Buckeye Road House...Mill Valley

matthew reilly


One of my favorite restaurants...I have probably gone here about 20 times and I am never dissapointed. When I first moved to Mill Valley 18 years ago, this place was in dire need of a fixup....good thing the Real Reataurant Group purchased the place and made the necessary repairs. Now the place has been restored to its former glory. High ceilings and open beams dominate the dining room. Dark woods are abundant. But the item the call the most attention is the roaring fire place. Giving off a ski-lodge like vibe, the dining room is warm and inviting. Formal, but not stuffy. You will be happy here in jeans, as well as Armani. There is an upstairs dining area as well...but if you can help it, ask to be seated in the lower area.

Pulling up to the restaurant, you will notice an expansive parking lot..but dont try to park there...simply hand your keys to the free valet...yes, free...not something you see at the typical SF restaurant..but then this is not a typical SF restaurant...Located in Mill Valley, just a scant 15 min north of SF, via the GG Bridge, the Buckeye Roadhouse is an oasis of calm in this age of restaurant madness. Smoked meats and fishes are a speciality. They have a giant smoker in the back and you can see cooks regularly removing tasty items from it. They also serve all day long..no pause between lunch and dinner service..if you go there at about 3 pm...you might have the place to yourselves. Me and my friend went there at 4pm and there was only 1 other couple in the place. Seated quickly...lol..we took in the dining room. Crips white cloths on the tables, nice flatware and stemware were experly placed and polished. The waitress came over and took out drink order...she got Orange juice and I got an Iced Tea...we also got some water..this was perhaps the only sticky point to our visit..the waitress slyly asked if we want sparkling or still water...I understood (mistakenly apparently) that still meant tap...well it doesnt..it means bottled, but no carbonation...only 3 bucks..and not really worth getting my boxers in a bunch over...but I will point this out nonetheless....When my Tea came, this is my fav part, the waitress brings out the usual...sugar...equal..but she also has syrup...see, the sugar does not desolve in the cold Tea..so the syrup sweetens it perfectly without the grittyness. Why most other places dont do this I dont know. You must order the ONION RINGS...they are not your usual onion rings. The thinly shave an onion into many thin strips, bread and fry them..but the capper is the housemade ketchup...made with mustard seeds...it is to die for. Get it...trust me. I ordered the Salmon with mushroom risotto and white truffle oil, she ordered the chili-lime brick chicken with stuffed chili. The dishes arrived nicely cooked and perfectly timed. The risotto had 4 or 5 different mushrooms., (chantrelles, morelles, shitake, portabello, and crimini) Salmon perched on top with truffle oil perfuming the dish. The smell was amazing. Her chicken was an entire half chicken, roasted and rubbed with a chili-lime rub. The chili was stufed with cheese and also included a rice croquette. The chicken was moist, yet the skin was nice and crispy. The bread was fresh and moist...seemingly hot from the oven...butter was not chilled cold as ice...but room temp..easy for spreding...also another common restaurant oversight. We were too full for dessert...but the choices are commonly...creme brulee...bead pudding...meyer lemon tart...etc...very homey type of things. I HIGHLY RECCOMEND this place for any occasion. An anniversary, a birthday...heck a tuesday.....it will live up to all your expectations. Get out from the city once in a while...by the time you find parking in the city you could already be eating here...

Tab= 58.24 tax included.

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